Tuesday, October 18, 2016

Bagore ki Haveli and Gangaur Ghat, Udaipur: Travel Diary

Your visit to Udaipur isn't complete without visiting Bagore ki Haveli. 

Bagore ki Haveli appears in the top most places to see in Udaipur. Few meters from Jagdish Temple, Bagore Ki Haveli was built by Amir Chand Badwa the then Prime Minister of Mewar in eighteenth century. It is on the waterfront of Lake Pichola at Gangaur Ghat. The spacious courtyard is surrounded by 138 rooms laid out across double story structure.

Entry ticket- Rs 60 each
The evening cultural show- Rs 60  

It was already 4 pm when we entered the haveli and the closing time was 5:30. We hurried through the haveli, ensuring not to miss anything. The palace is a museum with rooms arranged by different themes.  

We started with the first section of the haveli- Hubby’s favorite, the weapons collection.

Our second tour was to the royal wedding section where all aspects of Hindu Rajput weddings were on display through dolls/puppets. Reminded me of Shankar’s Doll Museum in Delhi. 

Mehendi ceremony

Mother in law welcomes son in law
Saat Phere

Traditional music at reception ceremony

Dulhan Vidaai

Who can resist selfies at wedding?

Right from fixing the mahurat of wedding to Bidaai and post wedding gatherings, the dolls display bring out the details of Indian wedding, even the small things used during the ceremonies. The colorful gallery leaves you with a smile on your face. How could I not have taken a selfie here ? 

Our next tour was to the first floor where the evening show is organized. Prior to the entrance of evening show, you get to visit one room with Rajasthani puppets on display. As the puppet art is slowly fading, the management is trying to keep it alive. A rich heritage of old times should not disappear like this. As you tour the whole room full of puppets in different sizes and costumes, there are little items on sale as well. You certainly feel like buying the cute stuff immediately. Though the room smells of dust, the puppets take away your attention from it.

The haveli houses a section on the types of pagdi or turbans that were donned those days and continue to be worn by many in present.
The Rajasthani Pagdi


 Balconies wearing the old rugged look, the worn out carvings on the walls, the traditional embroidery work, everything in the haveli spoke of a royal bygone era.

For me the most beautiful spot in the haveli was the balcony overlooking Lake Pichola. It the most peaceful place where the kings/queens then would have spent their evenings watching the sun setting against the lake.

One whole floor of the haveli has items arranged in respective categories of musical instruments, indoor games, turbans, pottery, jewellery, beds, and a lot more!

The game of dice


It takes around an hour and a half to see Bagore ki Haveli. The light and sound show takes place at 
7 pm every day, which sadly we missed.

We made an exit from haveli towards Gangaur Ghat, right next to the building.

The ghat, on the waterfront of Lake Pichola, is a place for many festive rituals. The tranquility which this place offers matches none! The sparkling water of Pichola with Sun painting the sky orange and the heritage hotels in the water are splendid. 


View from Bagore ki Haveli

The only turn off here – Locals bathing and washing clothes at the ghat, before getting ready for their puja. The debris from the ghat flows into the river contaminating the water.

We spend less than an hour at the ghat, imbibing the colorful beauty of the lake and Bagore ki Haveli in the backdrop.

Walking through the market, we took a tea break in Café Edelweiss. This is a cool eating joint with relaxed ambiance, often frequented by young crowd. We savored masala tea and choco ball in the cozy little place. The café sells a nice variety of in-house bakery and breakfast. Do check them out on your visit!

The narrow lanes of the market till Jagdish Chowk was so lively and beautifully decorated, perhaps because of festive season? The leather gift items, cute toys, Rajasthani skirts, turbans and every colorful item on display seemed to attract me! I somehow resisted my urge to spend here.

We again called for Ola to ferry us to our hotel. Mind you, auto fares are higher than Uber. 

For dinner, we ordered from Natraj, which is a very popular Restaurant on the Railway Station road. Rated 4.9 on 5 on Zomato, this legacy business is forty years old and has been showcased on Discovery Channel as well. Every penny you spend here is worth it. You would not want to miss eating here. Highly recommended for every one.

Our first day in Udaipur was well spent as we ticked off City Palace, Jagdish Temple, Bagore Ki Haveli and Gangaur Ghat from our bucket list.


  1. Udaipur is my favorite Indian city. Loved my visit there and did not have enough of it the last time.

    1. Yes Ami, Udaipur is quite serene and offers so much to indulge in!

  2. Very beautiful post

  3. Lovely pics dear.. Visited this place few years back.. Loved it :)

    1. Thanks Anjali. Credit goes to my Moto X phone. This was my first visit and I am in love with this place.

  4. Beautiful place. I missed this during my trip to Udaipur.

    1. Indeed quite beautiful. Visit in case you get a chance.


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